The Alto Alentejo 5

When you’ve had your fill of the cathedral and museum, consider taking a horse and carriage tour of the city starting and finishing outside the museum building. Alternatively, walk past the horses and carriages to the square called Largo Conde Vila Flor, where you’ll find the Templo Romano, a 15th century monastery called Convento dos Lóios (now a luxurious pousada), and the 16th century Palace of the Dukes of Cadaval.

Walk past the Ducal Palace, to the end of Rua Augusto Filipe Simoes, and the area immediately in front of you is called Mouraria. This is the old Moorish quarter characterised by picturesque cobbled alleys and small squares.

Retrace your steps to Largo Conde Vila Flore, past the library and out of the square through an alley that takes you behind the Cathedral. Here you’ll find a small museum of horse-drawn carriages.


		CONVENTO DOS LOIÓS



			Originally a monastery, this is now a luxurious pousada (the name given to hotels, formerly run by the government, that are ‘in keeping with the style and traditions of the region’). Dating from 1585 it features an elegant dining room set in the original monastic cloisters and the bedrooms are converted out of cells. The interior is off limits unless you are staying or eating there, but you can visit the associated (and attached) church. Dedicated to São João Evangelista (St. John the Baptist). It was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake and has a nave which is totally covered in azulejos (decorative tiles) telling the story of St. Laurence Justinian, Patriarch of Venice. There’s also a Moorish cistern (the church and monastery were built on the site of an old castle) and a beautiful Manueline altar. If you peer through the floor grille in the nave you can see, in the ossuary below, the bones of monks who lived and died here.

Antiga University. The Jesuit Colégio do Espirito Santo was inaugurated in 1559 by Cardinal Henrique, the future ‘Cardinal King’ and brother of King João lll. It flourished for 200 years, but was closed in 1759 by the Marquês de Pombal, who banished the Jesuits.

The University was reopened in the 1970s and is probably now one of Évora’s liveliest quarters. It has a beautiful entrance courtyard, brazilwood ceilings and, in the classrooms, fine azulejos (decorative tiles) depicting appropriate learning themes such as Plato lecturing to his followers. There’s also an attractive 16th century arched gallery cloister.

The Museum of Horse-Drawn Carriages is tucked in behind the Cathedral. Entry is free.

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Continue on past the museum and along Rua de Freira de Cima until you reach Rua do Colégio. Turn left along this street and a short way along, on your left, you’ll find remains of the old Roman walls. On the other side of the road is the old part of the university. The way in to the beautiful entrance courtyard is on the opposite side of the campus - best approached by walking around the outside of the complex.

WHERE TO EAT

		For typical Alentejo dishes try restaurant Guião on Rua da República. As well as serving good food, its interesting window features vegetables in the shape of ducks.



	Alternatively, there’s Botequim da Mouraria at 16A Rua da Mouraria in the Moorish quarter. There’s no signage outside, so you’ll need to look carefully. This is where many of the

		informed locals eat. Try the roast lamb.
	Or why not visit a Fado House, where you can eat whilst listening to Fado (Portugal’s national music) performed by a live band? We found a good one in Rua de Serpa Pinta (off Praça do Giraldo), opposite the Mosteira de Santa Clara church.